Exploring the Intersection of Art and Photography
Imagine you’re a surface designer launching a new printed fabric range. To give it a dynamic edge, you set up a photoshoot inspired by the iconic style of Guy Bourdin, the celebrated French fashion photographer known for his surreal and provocative imagery. You mirror Bourdin’s famous compositions, his use of vibrant colours, and strikingly staged models—but, of course, add your own twist.
But here’s the question: even with this unique touch, could using Bourdin’s style still be seen as copyright infringement? Absolutely, it could. Copyright law in Australia protects more than just exact replicas—it covers distinctive creative elements like composition, staging, and even lighting associated with a particular artist’s work. Let’s break down why this is the case and examine other copyright scenarios that illustrate where the legal boundaries lie.
Homage or Infringement? Understanding the Fine Line
Your tribute, however respectful, could still lead to legal issues. Australian copyright law covers unique artistic choices, even after an artist has passed away. For instance, photographers like Bourdin have a certain style that is protected for up to 70 years posthumously. His striking composition, use of colour, and staging are distinctive elements that may be covered under copyright law. When your fabric range’s photoshoot mirrors Bourdin’s visual techniques, it might be that you are not merely “inspired” but rather, reproducing a unique expression that belongs to his estate. Each case needs to assessed individually.
Here are some examples of cases to date in this area.
Notable Copyright Cases in Art, Fashion, and Photography
Madonna and the Estate of Guy Bourdin
In 2003, Madonna’s music video for “Hollywood” took heavy inspiration from the works of Guy Bourdin. Bourdin’s estate argued that the video replicated the themes, compositions, and provocative style of Bourdin’s photographs without permission.
Though the case was settled out of court (they came to a confidential agreement to settle the matter between themselves) it showed that that even seemingly subtle copying of distinctive elements can be legally considered infringement. In Australia, similar standards apply, meaning that if you’re using unique aspects of another’s work, even as inspiration, you could face legal action.
Mannion v. Coors Brewing Co.: Protecting the Photographer’s Vision
Photographer Jonathan Mannion won a copyright case against Coors Brewing Co. after they created an ad that closely resembled his portrait of basketball player Kevin Garnett. The court ruled that copyright extends to specific elements like composition, lighting, and poses. For surface designers, this means that using another artist’s unique composition without alteration could expose you to copyright claims, even if the final product looks slightly different. Idea-Expression Dichotomy in Copyright Law. Under Australian copyright law, the “idea-expression dichotomy” plays a crucial role in distinguishing protectable work from mere ideas. This principle means that while ideas themselves are not protected by copyright, the specific expression of those ideas is. For instance, a general concept—such as photographing models in a surreal or glamorous fashion—cannot be copyrighted. However, the unique choices an artist makes, such as specific compositions, poses, lighting, and stylistic elements, are considered “expressions” and are legally protected. For surface designers, this distinction can be subtle but highly relevant. Taking inspiration from another artist’s broad idea is acceptable, but directly incorporating elements that are unique to that artist’s work crosses into the realm of copyright infringement. While it’s natural to be inspired by the work of famous photographers or artists, surface designers should tread carefully. Even when the final work isn’t an exact copy, if it closely resembles the unique elements of the original artist’s work, it may still be considered infringement. Courts may view this as copying the artist’s expression rather than the idea itself, especially if the resemblance is recognisable. In the creative industry, inspiration often walks a fine line with replication. For surface designers, using another artist’s signature style—such as the dramatic, high-contrast visuals of a famous photographer—can be risky. If the resemblance is strong enough for others to identify the original artist’s influence, it may imply that you’re replicating their expression rather than drawing on a general idea. This is especially problematic if it creates a “look and feel” that’s immediately identifiable as that artist’s unique style. For example, designing a print inspired by the surreal, stylised work of someone like Guy Bourdin could lead to legal issues if the resulting image is recognisable as based on his signature elements. In such cases, even if you believe you’re creating a unique work, the legal system may see it as an infringement on Bourdin’s “expression” rather than a use of his “idea.” Australian copyright law recognises that distinctive artistic choices—like composition, angles, poses, and lighting—are protectable expressions, not mere ideas. For surface designers, this means that even small adjustments may not be enough to avoid infringement if the work retains the recognisable “essence” of the original artist’s expression. The law considers these unique elements as defining features, and reproducing them, even in a modified form, could still be deemed a violation. For more information on copyright law refer here. When using existing images or elements in your work under a licence, it’s essential to stick to the terms of that licence precisely. Cases like The Verve’s famous sampling of The Rolling Stones’ music show how even minor deviations from agreed terms can lead to severe consequences. For surface designers, this principle means that if you licence specific images, designs, or artistic elements, you must follow the scope of use exactly as agreed to avoid unexpected liabilities. Drawing from these cases, we can outline some key copyright principles applicable to surface designers who look to established artists for inspiration. Australian copyright law recognises unique stylistic elements, such as composition, lighting, and poses, as protectable. Even if you change these elements slightly, it could still be deemed infringement if the core of the work is recognisable as belonging to the original artist. Further, while inspiration is a natural part of the creative process, there is a clear boundary between inspiration and replication. Using a well-known photographer’s style in a way that makes it instantly recognisable to others can invite copyright claims. At Sharon Givoni Consulting, we specialise in guiding creatives through the intricacies of copyright law. We understand that the lines between homage and infringement can be blurry and our team can assist you in reviewing your designs and promotional materials to ensure they don’t infringe on others’ rights while allowing you the creative freedom to express your vision. We also provide support in obtaining licences, helping you navigate the terms and conditions that accompany using other artists’ work, and assisting with understanding Australian copyright law’s application to surface design. With years of experience in intellectual property law, we’re committed to helping designers launch their collections confidently and legally. For further information, see our related articles on copyright in the creative industries and protecting your work on our website. Sharon Givoni Consulting is here to protect your creativity while ensuring compliance with Australian IP law. The balance between inspiration and infringement in the creative industries is delicate. As seen in cases like Madonna’s homage to Guy Bourdin s, even well-intended tributes can lead to costly legal disputes. For surface designers, understanding copyright principles is essential to avoid legal pitfalls while celebrating creativity. Please note the above article is general in nature and does not constitute legal advice. Please email us info@iplegal.com.au if you need legal advice about your brand or another legal matter in this area generally.Be Careful: Inspiration Can Become a Legal Problem
Understanding the Limits of “Inspiration”
Creative Choices Are Protected
Strict Adherence to Licence Terms
Copyright Principles for Surface Designers
How Sharon Givoni Consulting Can Assist Surface Designers
Conclusion